The Short Answer
If you want shopping and strolling, go to Ortisei. It is the largest market, open all day on weekends, and feels like a fairytale village.
If you want Après-Ski vibes and coziness, go to Selva. It is smaller, located directly at the bottom of the ski slopes, and features unique wooden gondolas hanging over the stalls.
Ortisei: “Nadel Urtijëi” (The Christmas Village)
Ortisei transforms its entire pedestrian center into a “Christmas Village”. It is elegant, extensive, and focuses heavily on high-quality local products.
- The Vibe: Rustic-chic. Think wooden huts, soft lighting, and a focus on Ladin tradition.
- Best For: Families, couples who don’t ski, and serious gift shopping.
- Food: The “L’Ega Bon” stands offer gourmet versions of local classics like Glühwein and Strauben.
- Opening Times:
- Weekends: 11:00 – 19:00 (Food huts open until 20:00).
- Weekdays: 16:00 – 19:00 (Food huts open until 20:00).
Ortisei gets very crowded on weekends in December. Do not try to park in the center. Use the Setil Underground Car Park (near the pedestrian bridge) or take the bus.
Selva: “Nadel da Mont” (Mountain Christmas)
Selva’s market is unique because it brings the ski slopes into the village. It is located at Nives Square, right in the center of town.
- The Vibe: Sporty and intimate. A miniature cable car of 13 wooden gondolas hangs over the huts, creating a beautiful “roof” of lights.
- Best For: Skiers coming off the slopes. It is just a short walk from the main gondolas, making it perfect for a post-ski aperitivo.
- Food: Hearty and traditional.
- Opening Times: Generally 15:00 – 19:00 (Open daily from mid-December).
Most skiers arrive here directly from the Sellaronda via the main valley lift, located just a 5-minute walk away:
Ciampinoi Gondola
StandardSelva
Selva is higher (1,563m) and often colder/windier than Ortisei. Since the market is in an open square, thermal layers are essential.
Summary Comparison
| Feature | Ortisei (St. Ulrich) | Selva (Wolkenstein) |
|---|---|---|
| Size | Large (Spread through town) | Compact (Nives Square) |
| Theme | Fairytale Village | Ski / Mountain Flair |
| Best Time | Afternoon / Evening | Après-Ski (16:00+) |
| Access | Pedestrian Zone | Ski-in possible |
Which one should you choose?
You don’t have to choose. They are only 20-25 minutes apart by bus (Line 350). Our suggestion: Spend the afternoon shopping in Ortisei, then head to Selva for a pre-dinner aperitivo under the gondola lights.
